This blog was initiated by Owen Geiger in response to overwhelming interest in affordable, DIY geopolymer cast stone construction. This blog is an open source project to develop geopolymer cast stone building for all of humanity, and disseminate the information to reach the broadest possible audience. It is offered with an attitude of good will toward all of those who might employ the ideas and further this very sustainable approach to building.
Owen Geiger, Ph.D. (in Social and Economic Development), is the former Director of Builders Without Borders and Founder and Director of the Geiger Research Institute of Sustainable Building. He is an author, engineer and licensed contractor specializing in strawbale construction, earthbag and other types of sustainable building. He co-authored the Builders Without Borders Straw-Bale Construction Guides; and contributed to Building Without Borders: Sustainable Construction for the Global Village. His latest book is Earthbag Building Guide: Vertical Walls Step-by-Step. Dr. Geiger has consulted on numerous international housing projects and worked closely with Habitat for Humanity for seven years. He is also a correspondent for The Last Straw Journal and a Mother Earth News Magazine Green Homes Expert.
Email: strawhouses AT yahoo.com
someone had asked about using rhyolite rock in geopolymer. I found the below at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lava Since this says it is high in silica (which is the thing that would make DE work and clay) and it is also high in calcium (like lime) and sodium too…… I would think this would work very well. I dont know where her post is now though….. maybe you do?
“Felsic lava
Felsic (or silicic) lavas such as rhyolite and dacite typically form lava spines, lava domes or “coulees” (which are thick, short lavas) and are associated with pyroclastic (fragmental) deposits. Most Silicic lava flows are extremely viscous, and typically fragment as they extrude, producing blocky autobreccias. The high viscosity and strength are the result of their chemistry, which is high in silica, aluminium, potassium, sodium, and calcium, forming a polymerized liquid rich in feldspar and quartz, which thus has a higher viscosity than other magma types. Felsic magmas can erupt at temperatures as low as 650 to 750 °C. Unusually hot (>950 °C) rhyolite lavas, however, may flow for distances of many tens of kilometres, such as in the Snake River Plain of the northwestern United States.”
It’s too much work looking for one single comment. We’ll just hope they find your comment.
It sounds like any type of pozzolon will work. The key is finding what’s low cost and locally available. I’ve never heard of rhyolite crusher fines, but they should work if available.
Here is something else I found! Very exciting! Silica is one of the major components of geopolymer. DE is silica as is waterglass……. both are named over and over in many recipes. I just found out that pv cells are made with silica (hence the name Silicon Valley, a major innovator in pv technology) Anyway, according to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_silicon we can harvest electric thru construction techniques and make our own built in pv cells!!!! It would take someone a LOT smarter then me to figure all this out, but we can build stone homes where every outside inch is a working pv WOW!!!
there is almost no relation between silica as a mineral and silicon as a semiconductor. There is a closer relation between rust powder and the most expensive stainless steel.
You can’t build a structural beam out of rust powder. And you can’t use alumino-silicates as photo-voltaics. there are mineral semiconductors, like silicon-carbide, but the methods by which they are prepared as semiconductors are not applicable to the lack of precise control and cleanliness necessary for construction.
Maybe this is why the outer casing of the pyramids were made with geopolymer? [cue Twilight Zone music] Almost seems too good to be true, but you never know. They already have photovoltaic roofing and printed thin films.
Ahh, yaeh on the twilight zone stuff….. In my studies about this stuff lately, I have often found myself sidetracked and learning about how very amazing the pyramids really are! Absolutely facinating! And of course too, when you start getting into the Moon and Mars stuff and the ancient pyramids found in many places in the world……… well, let’s just say it is ALL interesting and makes one pause But I suppose you have read about the Baghdad battery and how many people believe that the Egyptians had a primitive type light bulb to help them carve and paint in very dark conditions where no smoke stains or otherwise tell tale signs of burning oil or candles were…
I’ve read they have found a Baghdad battery…
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_earth
Thanks. Cast earth and poured earth are in the queue of upcoming blog posts. I can’t publish too many at once or people will get overwhelmed.
maybe…… just maybe, the cast earth method could be used and then a low slump slurry made with davidouti’s geopolymer recipe hand applied to the outside of the cast earth or Alker’s method would be really good. I have made both now.
The one I did with the Alker method I later learned I used the wrong gypsum (I used garden gypsum instead of plaster of paris cuz that is what I had available) I only made it (and found out it’s the wrong kind) last night. It is taking several hours to set up.
For the one I did with davidouti’s method, I again did not get a real good mix on the dry ingredients and I reused other failed rocks which I broke up and disolved. I also added a few other ingredients. It gave me a thick gell while stirring up and would be considered a low slump. I then rammed more lime s and other things into it until I just had powder sitting on top and it just would not take anymore, then left it to sit. In the parts of it that I got a good mix, Im thinking it will hold up really well to any test I put it through……. have yet to see though because I made it 4″ thick by about 6″x6″ and it could still set up longer to become all the harder I am sure.
The best test for geopolymers (and all cements) is that recommended by Le Chatlier in 1887. Boiling the piece for an hour or more should destroy geopolymers that seemed okay. The test for air slaking, which is to steam the piece like broccoli, I believe would also destroy imperfect sodium gepolymers by causing such an aggressive bloom of unreacted soda that the expanding salt breaks the piece.
I had pieces I thought were good for over a month before they crumbled into dust.
Let us know how it goes. Liquid stone like cast earth or Alker is the ‘holy grail’ of construction. That’s why concrete is so popular (#1 traded commodity in the world after water), because it can be poured into any shape. Davidovits method is slow and stiff, not pourable. Use his geopolymer science to make liquid, pourable geopolymer made of low cost materials and that would be the ultimate. E-crete (pourable geopolymer) is already available: https://geopolymerhouses.wordpress.com/2011/06/19/e-crete%e2%84%a2-green-concrete-geopolymer/ What I’m saying is make your own with simple materials. The two students from the Philippines have come very close: https://geopolymerhouses.wordpress.com/2011/06/18/cement-from-wastes-in-the-philippines/ But I’m hoping to find a formula that doesn’t require so much processing.
The recipes all require ash….. differnt types, but ash nonetheless. That is one thing I just cannot get. There are plenty of old salt lake beds around here though. And tuffa as well as traveline is a natural found mineral around here. I also found where sand is processed from here and a place where I can get it by the bucket fulls for free. I have to go get it and check to see if it has enough silica in it for me to use. Also diatmecous earth, soda ash, borax (all the white powders) are either here for free taking or being mined. I have found local sources for this stuff. Clay is hard to come by (apparently prized in these recipes for the silica content), but I did find out the kitty litter sold by the big box store for cheap is a good substitute. Maybe I could substitute de or kitty litter for fly ash? The ashes have some sort of an alumina silicate in them that makes them prized, I dont think kitty litter or de has the alumina thing going for them…….
Hi,
I am very new to this and would like to know where to get the geopolymer mix. My husband and I have reciently purchased land in the north west corner of Utah. About 60 miles south of Pocatello ID. The land is fairly close to an older volcano. It also is within range of the Great Salt Lake. We have looked into various building options and I’m very courious about geopolymers. I may also do some of our buildings out of Paper-crete.
My e-mail is gotyourgoatdairy@netzero.com or imjustkidding2@gmail.com
I appreciate your time and any help you can give me on this adventure!
Sincerely,
Lora
There are about a dozen brands on the market. Every company I know if is listed on this blog. You’ll have to contact the companies and find out what’s available in your area.
Ideally we’ll come up with numerous formulas and then people can use what’s locally available and lowest cost.
Something interesting I found out today. I put about 1 cup of soda ash in a metal container (not aluminum) and added 1 cup of room temp water and let it sit at room temp. It very rapidly started releasing gas bubbles and the pan got warm. After only a couple minutes, it had stopped bubbling and I noticed that all the soda ash was still sitting at the bottom of the container, but now it was very-very-very hard! I didnt even have time to stir it before it completely set on it’s own, and under water too!
Le chatlier discusses this and the subsequent air slaking of the “set” product on page 115 of his book: http://books.google.com/books?id=rX06AAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover
This phenomena also applies to geopolymers, and pieces that seem perfectly well set can turn to dust in months or years. This is why boiling and steaming tests are necessary.
Dr Geiger,
I read both of your blogs and find them fascinating. I want to experiment particularly with geopolymer cement. Here in the Ozarks limestone is fairly easy to come by but getting fly ash, not so much. Could you publish recipes we could try out. I’d be happy to share my results. In particular I’m looking for geopolymers that don’t require kilns or industrial equipment.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
Regards,
Roy
Hi Roy. We’ve already published numerous recipes. Most are back at the beginning of the blog. I expect more recipes in the future as more readers experiment with geopolymer. Try using burned rice hull ash instead of fly ash.
Hi Owen,
Not sure if you seen this
http://gizmodo.com/5829487/new-material-for-fast-rebuilding-after-disasters
Regards
Hi Owen,
Been following your blogs on a daily basis – even bought your “Earthbag Building” book.
This blog, in my opinion, have become the authoritive reference on all things Geopolymer.
In time to come it’s value will be recognised
Congratulations and thanx for doing this
Dion
Thanks, Dion. Traffic is still quite slow (although steady). I’m taking a long term view because I believe we’re on the right track. There’s already 131 posts in just three months, and as far as I know there’s no other blog like this. The site’s value will almost certainly go up over time, especially as more of us get involved in testing and more readers pitch in their suggestions.
Hi Owen,
I found the problem of efflorescence in geopolymer was difficult to overcome. Could you give me some advice?
I’m learning along with everyone else. It depends the chemical makeup of your materials.
Yan
efflorescence is due to carbonation of aluminosilicate (co2 from air). you may add some polymer such as SBR which forms microfilm within to stop the carbonation
Dr. Geiger
I’m so excited to find this blog – for years I’ve been doing internet research on geopoymers that would be suitable for owner-built residential construction, and have been piecing together information from hard to find sources. I took about 6 months off for other projects and have come back to find your blog!
My goals are to find an expansive geopolymer mix that can ideally be poured into a small slipform. It needs to consist of sustainable, easily found, local, inexpensive ingredients, be loadbearing, breathabe, hygroscopic, and able to be made seismically stable and perhaps insulative. I know the magic mix is out there!
Here are a couple of interesting sites that you may already know about:
http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/217-3D-printing-buildings-interview-with-Enrico-Dini-of-D_Shape.html
Patent description of the above:
http://www.wipo.int/patentscope/search/en/WO2009037550
Click to access 239-246.pdf
http://www.tececo.com/
Thank you so much for putting together this bog!
Debbie Greene
Debbie, I had considered 3D printing impractical for all but special structures or sculpture. Now it sounds like the technology is advancing. Do you know what binder they’re using?
You say you want to use slipforms. Did you see my blog posts about earthbags? Polpropylene tubes could be filled with geopolymer and stacked. The sides could be tamped flat, leaving only small gaps to patch after the bags were cut away. Or you could plaster both sides. I’m interested in a porous mix that’s similar to lava rock. Here’s a photo on one blog post that’s almost exactly what I had in mind, so scientists are already developing this type of geopolymer. https://geopolymerhouses.wordpress.com/2011/07/25/lightweight-insulating-geopolymer-earthbags-part-2/
The end result would be stronger than concrete, more sustainable and insulating due to the trapped air in the pores. See the Stone Dome: https://geopolymerhouses.wordpress.com/2011/06/10/earthbag-stone-dome/ I’ve been planning to build a stone dome, but our land is now filled up with other test structures and there’s no space available.
Owen –
A while back I considered earthbags. I researched and read the books, and went to Cal Earth – but I really like the look of Cast Earth/rammed earth/poured earth walls, where you can see the variegated surface of the material. and it’s completely smooth. And I really want to skip the extra step of plastering. So I think I’m either going to use a small slipform (2 feet deep X 2 feet long) or slipform lifts – where you pour one 2 foot level at a time, around the entire perimeter of the house. It depends upon the set time of the material. But I still might use earthbags for other projects.
That lightweight geopolymer looks interesting – lots of insulating bubbles!
I believe Enrico Dini’s 3D printed geopolymer formula is:
dolomitic limestone sand (aggregate)
mixed with magnesium oxide powder (catalyst),
sprayed with a magnesium chloride solution (binder)
This is sprayed in many,many successive layers until the whole house is completely built up. I pieced together the information from his interviews and the patent for his machine. This is actually a geopolymer that was invented in 1867 called Sorel cement. He says:
“The binder transforms any kind of sand into a marble-like material (i.e. a mineral with microcrystalline characteristics) and with a resistance and traction much superior to Portland Cement, so much so that there is no need to use iron to reinforce the structure. This artificial marble is indistinguishable from real marble and chemically it is one hundred percent environmentally friendly.”
He must also have a little phosphate in the mix because Sorel cements had a problem holding up in wet condtions:
Click to access Sorel%20cement%20memo.pdf
http://www.solidsmack.com/fabrication/enrico-dino-3d-printed-structures-houses-gaudi/
Great news, thanks!
Dear Sir,
I am a student doing research on Rice husk based production in application to concrete. The problem of RHA is its high carbon content of 7-8% here. Can you suggest me a procedure to reduce the carbon content of the ash.
You can find lots of labs working with rice hull ash on the Internet. Contact them for the best solution.
Thankyou, Sir for your reply. Can you please give some reference of the lab.
You’ll have to google it.
Hi there. Can you point me to at least one simple, reproducible geopolymer recipe (ingredient list with quantities and any preheating/mixing/treatment/curing instructions) that will work at or near ambient / kitchen-stove temperatures in a DIY home setting, using materials I could source from my surroundings (I live in limestone-, flyash-, slag-rich Pittsburgh PA!) or from a well-stocked ceramics supplier?
Thanks!
Search this site using search terms like recipe and formula. You have a good range of materials and should find something to work.
I gotta say, these recipes are inadequate — as in, missing ingredients, environmental conditions, documentation in general, indications of reliability, cost. What gives? I’ll experiment, but I’d have thought someone with a better budget would have “experimented” already and broadcast something capable of being repeated! :r) The emotion I’m feeling right now is “flabbergasted”. As soon as I make something, I’ll be sure to post a video, photo album, recipe, all of it.
But again, great blog idea here, tons of material, impressive. Searching last winter for geopolymer-related stuff on the internet, didn’t get very far beyond Davidovits!
This is a free blog. I’ve aggregated about 300 articles to help people out. I’m super busy and don’t have time to make a high dollar website for free.
And lots of the best stuff is not made public. There’s a race among geopolymer scientists to compete against entrenched cement companies. The precise formula and processing details obviously make a huge difference. Sooner or later I hope some of the best info gets leaked. Stay tuned.
Dude, no need to go on the defensive. I’m not being sarcastic when I say I think you are doing awesome work here. I’m just frustrated that publicly available geopolymer formulas remain incomplete and non-reproducible. Not your fault — if anyone would have found a good one by searching the internet, it would be you! But I could care less about “proprietary” interests, some version of this should be free and cheap and commonplace by now.
Also, you don’t need a “high dollar” website to post a decent geopolymer recipe. Those are not related issues! Or rather, if you had a high-dollar website, you’d probably be posting way less useful info! :r]
Yes, I agree that “some version of this should be free and cheap and commonplace”. That’s why I made the blog. I don’t have time to do everything people ask. Hopefully this blog will encourage discussion and collaboration and take things to the next level.
I already have viberating table, and screed frame, for MCR roof tiles, but need plastic moulds, for Spanish, Mission tiles. I’m in Philippines, and can’t find anything here.
You’ll have to use a search engine to locate companies.
Nice blog and very infomative. I’ll be entrenched in it for the rest of the day learning no doubt!
so, there seems to be so much information available, that I am just plain confused at this point, kind of geopolymer is the most affordable but very strong? I want to build a small home up here in northern california out of it, but im getting kind of lost in all the information…
I’ve mostly republished whatever I could find on the Web in one space to facilitate discussion. It would be great if material scientists could help fill in the missing blanks and develop open source geopolymer recipes. In the meantime things are rather hit and miss, I agree. You’ll have to figure things out by trial and error using materials where you live. In short, geopolymer has enormous potential, but so far the best recipes are closely guarded secrets.
Short answer is, there’s not a single openly-demonstrated recipe on the internet. The closest I’ve come is the very simplistic but adequate lists in CCHRC’s “Geopolymer Project Final Report”, starting on page 41/114.
Click to access Geopolymer_Project_Final_Report.pdf
Better off starting somewhere else unless you have a few hundred dollars and a source of bulk pozzolans to make initial tests for yourself.
Great, there are just few people focus on this field on the blog world.
Thanks. What we REALLY need now are material scientists who can figure out the details to bring geopolymer to the masses. I’ve mostly republished whatever I could find in one space to facilitate the discussion. It would be great if you could help fill in the missing blanks.
canyou please help me in making the mix proportion of geopolymer
as how much water should be aaded for making cube s
You’ll have to figure this out through experimentation because the recipes and materials will vary. In general, you want to use as little water as possible. This is an important rule of thumb in regards to concrete, and same would apply to geopolymer. Too much water greatly reduces the strength.
after searching the net for months and trying hundreds of “recipes” I realized that a lot of information was deliberately left out or misleading. Full of such vague terms as “then add the prepared amount of added water” but of course, no formulae for calculating the amount and of course, if you add too much you get no polymerization…anyway…many misleading facts out there. I have finally come up with a working formula which I can produce a beautiful brick from local materials. I plan to get started with a commercial operation producing patio pavers and other items. If interested in discussing this you can contact me at loyveal@gmail.com.
That’s fantastic news! I agree, the info on the net tends to be rather limited. The best recipes are closely guarded because they’re used in commercial products. BUT… sooner or later things have a way of leaking out. An intern, a researcher, disgruntled employee, etc. will eventually come across important details and publish their findings on the net. Plus, there are lots of good hearted people in the world who want to see things improve. And there’s nothing stopping you from having a profitable geopolymer business and helping people at the same time. I recommend freely publishing your recipe. Only a tiny percent will make their own. You could still have a successful business.
I posted about 6 months ago and have been working on perfecting the product, and we now are in the processing of setting up a small factory to produce pavers first and then add other products. We already have a distributor lined up and a first order for 2000 units. Perhaps once we have begun production later this summer we will make some intern positions available where interested persons could come and work and learn the process and perhaps even open similar facilities in their areas. We are also working on a building block of geopolymer/ sawdust mix which will be structural, finished and insulating and which wil lbe cast with channels for electric cable and water pipes. If interested contact me at loyveal@gmail.com.